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KOMPAS.com - Bahan kerajinan serat alam berasal dari alam. Bahan serat alam yang dimaksud adalah bahan organik yang tidak diolah kembali melalui proses dan penambahan bahan kimiawi yang membuat keasliannya tetap terjaga dan diutamakan Secara umum serat digunakan sebagai bahan baku pembuatan benang atau kain yang kemudian menjadi pakaian atau kerajinan. Produk kerajinan yang ada di masyarakat memiliki ciri khas masing-masing. Biasanya itu sesuai dengan jenis bahan alam yang dipakai. Dikutip dari buku Pengetahuan Barang Tekstil (1977) karya Jumaeri, pada umumnya kain dari serat alam mempunyai sifat yang hampir sama yaitu kuat, padat, mudah kusut, dan tahan penyetrikaan. Baca juga: Pengertian Serat Alam Bahan serat alam dapat digolongkan menjadi tiga jenis, yakni, serat tumbuhan, serat hewan, dan serat mineral. Berikut penjelasannya: Serat TumbuhanTidak semua tumbuhan memiliki kandungan yang bisa diolah menjadi serat alam. Pada serat tumbuhan memiliki kandungan kimia selulosa yang tinggi. Selulosa terdapat di dalam dinding sel tumbuhan dan tersusun atas unit-unit glukosa yang berasal dari proses fotosintesis tumbuhan. Serat yang berasal dari tumbuhan dapat dikelompok menurut asal tumbuhannya, yakni: Baca juga: Seni Rupa Terapan: Pengertian, Jenis dan Fungsinya
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Klasifikasi Serat PengantarTekstil memiliki hubungan yang penting pada kehidupan kita sehari-hari sehingga setiap orang harus mengetahui tentang dasar-dasar serat dan sifatnya. Serat tekstil yang digunakan untuk berbagai macam aplikasi seperti penutup, penghangat, perhiasan pribadi dan bahkan untuk menampilkan kekayaan pribadi. Teknologi tekstil telah jauh memenuhi kebutuhan ini. Pengetahuan dasar tentang serat tekstil akan memudahkan penilaian merek dan jenis serat dan membantu mengidentifikasi kualitas yang tepat untuk aplikasinya. Buletin ini mencakup berbagai serat tekstil dan sifat-sifat yang penting untuk aplikasi tekstil yang sesuai.Klasifikasi SeratSecara luas, serat tekstil dapat diklasifikasikan ke dalam dua kategori:
Serat AlamiSerat Alami are subdivided further, as outlined beRendah, by their origin. Table beRendah when available.
Serat Buatan ManusiaSerat Buatan Manusia are subdivided as shown beRendah with their various Komposisis and origin.
1. Serat AlamiKapasKapas, the natural Serat most widely used in Pakaian, grows in a boll around the seeds of Kapas plants. A single Serat is an elongated cell that is a flat, twisted, holRendah, ribbon-like structure. karakteristik
Aplikasi
LinenLinen, one of the most expensive Serat Alami, is made from the Lenan plant. It is labour-intensive to produce, hence produced in small quantities. However Linen fabric is valued for its exceptional coolness and freshness in hot weather. It is composed of 70% Selulosa and 30% pectin, ash, woody tissue and moisture. karakteristik
Aplikasi
WolWol Serat grows from the skin of Domba and is a relatively coarse and Berkerut Serat with scales on its surface. It is composed of Protein. The Serat appearance varies depending on the breed of the Domba. Finer, softer and warmer Serats tend to be with more and smoother scales. Thicker, less warm Serats have fewer and rougher scales. Normally, the better Wol Serats with finer scales are duller in appearance than the Buruker quality Serats which have fewer scales. karakteristik
Aplikasi
SutraSutra is a fine, continuous strand unwound from the cocoon of a moth caterpillar known as the Sutraworm. It is composed of Protein. It is very shiny due to the Struktur prisma seperti segitiga of the Sutra Serat, which alRendahs Sutra cloth to refract incoming light at different angles. karakteristik
Aplikasi
Other Serat AlamiGoniGoni is taken from a tall plant of the same name and it is easy to cultivate and harvest. It is the cheapest Serat and is used in great quantities. karakteristik
Aplikasi
KapukIt is a Putih Bulu-like Serat obtained from the seed capsules of plants and trees called Ceiba Pentandra grown in Java and Sumatra (Indonesia), Mexico, Central America and the Caribbean, Northern South America and tropical West Africa. It is called Sutra Kapas due to its Tinggi Kilauan which is equal to that of Sutra. karakteristik
Aplikasi
RamiA woody Serat resembling Lenan and it is also known as Rumput Rhea dan Cina. It is taken from a tall fRendahering plant. karakteristik
Aplikasi
2. Serat Buatan Manusia2.1. Man-made (Regenerated)SelulosaThey are derived either from the Selulosa of the cell walls of short Kapas Serats that are called linters or, more frequently from pine wood. There are three types of man made Selulosa Serats: Rayon, Asetat and tri-Asetat. RayonRayon [link to Raylon] is made from naturally occurring polymers that simulate natural Selulosa Serats. It is neither a truly synthetic Serat nor a truly natural Serat. There are two varieties of Rayon; viscose and Tinggi wet modulus (HWM). These in turn are produced in a number of types to provide certain specific properties. karakteristik
Aplikasi
AsetatAsetat consists of a Selulosa compound identified as acetylated Selulosa – a Selulosa salt. Hence it possesses different qualities compared to Rayon. Asetat is Termoplastik and can be formed into any shape by application of pressure combined with Panas. Asetat Serats have Baik shape retention. karakteristik
Aplikasi
Tri-AsetatTri-Asetat consists of acetylated Selulosa that retains acetic groupings, when it is being produced as triAsetat Selulosa. It is a Termoplastik Serat and is more Tangguh than other Selulosa Serats karakteristik
Aplikasi
2.2. Man-made – Non-SelulosaSerat polimerKelompok serat ini dibedakan dengan disintesis atau dibuat dari berbagai elemen menjadi molekul yang lebih besar yang disebut polimer linear. Molekul-molekul dari masing-masing senyawa tertentu disusun dalam garis paralel dalam serat. Susunan molekul ini disebut orientasi molekul. The properties of such Serats are dependent on their chemical Komposisi and kinds of molecular orientation. NilonIn Nilon, the Serat forming substance is a long-chain synthetic polyamide in which less than 85% of the amide linkages are attached directly to two aromatic rings. The elements Karbon, oxygen, nitrogen and hydrogen are combined by chemical processes into compounds which react to form long-chain molecules, chemically known as polyamides and are then formed into Serats. There are several forms of Nilon. Each depends upon the chemical synthesis. They are: Nilon 4; 6; 6.6; 6.10; 6.12; 8; 10; and 11. karakteristik
Aplikasi
PoliesterIn Poliester, the Serat forming substance is any long-chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% by weight of an ester of a substituted aromatic carboxylic acid, but not restricted to substituted terapthalate units and para-substituted hydroxybenzoate units. In producing such Serats, the basic elements of Karbon, oxygen and hydrogen are polymerised. Variations are possible in the methods of production, in the combination of ingredients and in the ultimate molecular structures of the Serat forming substance. karakteristik
Aplikasi
SpandeksThe Serat forming substance used to produce Spandeks is any long-chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% of segmented polyurethane. Variations are possible when producing this Serat. The basic elements of nitrogen, hydrogen, Karbon and oxygen are synthesised with other substances to ethyl ester compounds in polymer chains of soft segments or sections that provide stretch and harder segments that hold the chain together. Trademarks of three Spandeks Serats are Cleer-span, Glospan and Lycra. karakteristik
Aplikasi
AkrilikIn Akriliks, the Serat forming substance is any long chain polymer composed of at least 85% by weight of Akrilonitril units. Using complicated processes, Karbon, hydrogen and nitrogen, the basic elements are synthesised with small amounts of other chemicals into larger polymer combinations. Variations are possible in the methods of production, in the combination of ingredients and in the ultimate molecular structures of the Serat forming substance. karakteristik
Aplikasi 3. Man-made – Protein SeratsProtein dari produk-produk seperti jagung dan susu diproses secara kimia dan diubah menjadi serat. Namun, serat tersebut tidak sukses secara komersial. 4. Man-made – Karet SeratsThe Serat forming substance is comprised of natural and synthetic Karet. The treated Karet is produced in strands, so that the cross-section is either round or square and the longitudinal surface is relatively smooth. 5. Man-made – Logamik SeratsThese Serats are composed of Logam, plastic-coated Logam, Logam-coated plastic, or a core completely covered by Logam. These Serats are usually produced in flat, narrow, smooth strips which possess Tinggi Kilauan. Aplikasi
6. Man-made – Mineral SeratsVarious Minerals have been manufactured into Kaca, Keramik and Grafit Serats having prescribed properties for specific uses. KacaAlthough Kaca is a hard and inflexible material, it can be made into a fine, translucent textile Serat that has an appearance and feel of Sutra. Natural Minerals such as silica sand, limestone, soda ash, borax, boric acid, feldspar and fluorspar have been fused under very Tinggi temperatures into Kaca which is processed into a Serat. karakteristik Aplikasi
Parameter Serat TekstilFibrous materials should possess certain properties to become a suitable textile raw material. Properties which are essential for acceptance as a suitable raw material may be classified as ‘Sifat primer’. The other properties which add specific desirable character or aesthetics to the end product and its use may be classified as ‘Sifat sekunder’. Sifat primer1. Panjangnya 2. Tenacity (Kekuatan) 3. Keluwesan 4. Kohesi 5. Keseragaman sifat Sifat sekunder1. Bentuk fisik 2. Specific gravity (influence weight, cover etc.) 3. Kembalinya kelembaban* and absorption (comfort, static electricity etc.) 4. Elastis character 5. Thermo plasticity (softening point and Panas - set character) 6. Kemampuan pencelupan 7. Resistensi terhadap pelarut, bahan kimia korosif, mikro organisme dan kondisi lingkungan 8. Sifat mudah terbakar 9. Kilauan Sifat FisikKapas
Linen
Wol
Sutra
Rayon
Regular Rayon: Rendah Tinggier than natural Selulosa Serat mengembang dalam air Lemaher when wet PanasLoses Kekuatan above 148°C / 300°F Asetat
Nilon
Poliester
Akrilik
Sifat Serat – PerbandinganDaya serap
*Kembalinya kelembaban* is expressed as a percentage of the moisture-free weight at 70º Fahrenheit and 65% relative humidity. Sifat termal
Pengaruh Asam
Pengaruh Basa
Pengaruh Pelarut Organik
Pengaruh Sinar Matahari
Kebersihan dan ketercucian
Pengaruh Keringat
*Perspiration can be acidic or alkaline, depending on the individual's metabolism. Efek Lumut
Effect of Panas
Efek Serangga
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